Polysorbate 80

Polysorbate 80 is a non-ionic surfactant used as a solubiliser, emulsifier and dispersing agent in cosmetic and personal-care formulations. It is particularly useful for helping incorporate oils, fragrance and other suitable lipophilic materials into water-containing systems and can also provide oil-in-water emulsifying support.

What is Polysorbate 80 & why is it used?

Polysorbate 80 is an ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate used in cosmetic formulation for its non-ionic surface-active properties. It helps reduce interfacial tension between water and oil-based materials, supporting the incorporation and distribution of otherwise poorly water-compatible ingredients.

Formulators use Polysorbate 80 when a formulation requires solubilising, dispersing or oil-in-water emulsifying functionality. Its broader emulsifying role makes it useful not only for incorporating suitable oils and fragrance into aqueous systems, but also in emulsions, cleansers, shampoos and other formulations containing both aqueous and lipophilic components.

QUALITY MATTERS

Why specification quality matters

The performance of Polysorbate 80 can vary with material specification and the requirements of the formulation in which it is used. When selecting a cosmetic raw material, formulators should consider relevant specifications, technical documentation and consistency alongside the ingredient name itself.

For commercial formulation, assess the documentation applicable to the specific grade and source being purchased, rather than assuming all materials sold under the INCI name Polysorbate 80 have identical specifications.

Appearance Pale yellow liquid

Solubility Water soluble

Primary function Solubiliser

Use level 1.0–10.0%

Key benefits

Solubilising

Helps incorporate suitable oil-soluble materials into predominantly water-based formulations.

Emulsifying

Supports the formation and distribution of oil-phase materials in oil-in-water formulation systems.

Dispersing

Supports more uniform distribution of fragrance, essential oils and other compatible lipophilic materials.

Non-Ionic Functionality

Provides versatile surface-active functionality without carrying an ionic charge, making it useful across a broad range of cosmetic formulation systems.

Behaviour in formulations

Polysorbate 80 acts at the interface between aqueous and lipophilic materials, helping otherwise poorly water-compatible ingredients distribute more effectively through a formulation. Depending on the system and concentration, it may function primarily as a solubiliser, dispersing agent or provide emulsifying support.

The amount required is influenced by the type and quantity of oil-soluble material, other surfactants or emulsifiers present, and the desired clarity, viscosity and sensory characteristics of the finished formulation.

Sensory notes

Polysorbate 80 generally has a relatively unobtrusive sensory contribution when used at an appropriate level, although increasing concentration can influence the weight, tack and overall feel of lightweight formulations.

In surfactant and cleansing systems, it may also affect foam character and viscosity depending on the wider ingredient system

Formulation considerations

PROCESSING

Polysorbate 80 may be incorporated directly into a formulation or pre-mixed with suitable oils, fragrance or other compatible lipophilic materials before addition to the aqueous system.

For solubilising applications, a pre-mix can help establish more uniform incorporation. Mix thoroughly and evaluate the finished system for clarity or dispersion, homogeneity and stability.

COMPATIBILITY

As a non-ionic surfactant, Polysorbate 80 can be used across a broad range of cosmetic systems and alongside many commonly used surfactants, emulsifiers, humectants and oil- and water-phase ingredients.

Compatibility and performance depend on the complete formulation. Oil composition, electrolyte concentration, surfactant system and other formulation components can influence solubilisation, emulsion behaviour, clarity and viscosity.

Polysorbate 80 is used across a range of water-containing cosmetic systems. Select the finished-product pH according to the requirements of the complete formulation, including the preservative system and any pH-sensitive ingredients.

FORMULATION EXAMPLES

Solubilising fragrance or suitable oils in aqueous formulations
Supporting oil-phase distribution in oil-in-water emulsions
Incorporating lipophilic materials into cleansing and surfactant systems
Supporting dispersion of suitable oils in shampoos and other rinse-off formulations

Use level considerations

Recommended range 1.0–10.0%

Suggested starting level 1%%

The amount of Polysorbate 80 required depends on its intended role, the type and concentration of material being incorporated and the wider formulation system.

For solubilisation, the optimum Polysorbate 80-to-oil or fragrance ratio should be established experimentally rather than assumed from a universal ratio. Increasing the level may improve incorporation in some systems but can also affect clarity, viscosity, foaming and sensory character.

For emulsifying applications, consider the complete oil phase and whether additional emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers or structuring ingredients are required to achieve the desired stability and texture.

Formulation summary

Polysorbate 80 is a versatile non-ionic surfactant particularly useful where a formulation contains both aqueous and lipophilic components. Its ability to provide solubilising, dispersing and oil-in-water emulsifying functionality allows it to perform different roles depending on the formulation system.

Selection and concentration should be based on the material being incorporated and the required finished-product characteristics, with bench testing used to optimise performance.