Ingredient Dictionary

Allantoin is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient used primarily for skin conditioning, soothing and improving the feel of rough or dry skin. Its keratin-softening properties make it particularly useful in formulations designed to support a smoother, more comfortable skin surface.

Aloe Vera Extract Powder is a concentrated botanical ingredient derived from Aloe vera and used in cosmetic formulations for hydration, soothing and skin conditioning. Powdered extracts provide Aloe’s naturally occurring plant components in a concentrated, water-soluble format, allowing formulators to incorporate Aloe without the large water contribution associated with conventional Aloe juices.

Concentrated Aloe powders are available at different extract ratios and compositions, so formulation levels should be selected according to the concentration and specification of the particular grade. They are especially useful in serums, toners, gels, creams, masks, after-sun products and sensitive-skin formulations.

Bentonite clay is an absorbent mineral used in cosmetic formulations for oil control and structuring.

Beta-glucan is a water-soluble polysaccharide derived from oat, used in cosmetic formulations to support hydration and barrier-focused systems. It is widely used in advanced formulations due to its
compatibility and performance. 

Betaine is a naturally derived humectant and osmoprotectant commonly used in cosmetic formulations to support hydration, improve skin feel and enhance formulation mildness.

Bisabolol is an oil-soluble cosmetic active valued for its soothing, skin-conditioning and skin-comfort properties. Alpha-Bisabolol is widely used in skincare and personal care formulations, particularly products developed for sensitive, uncomfortable or environmentally stressed skin.

Its oil solubility makes it particularly suited to the oil phase of emulsions, facial oils, balms and other anhydrous or oil-based cosmetic systems. Bisabolol is commonly incorporated into facial skincare, moisturisers, serums, after-sun products and targeted soothing formulations where skin comfort and conditioning are key formulation objectives.

Caprylic/capric
triglycerides is a lightweight emollient used in cosmetic formulations to
improve spreadability and overall formulation feel.

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetic formulations to create clear gels and control viscosity.

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations to build viscosity and stabilise emulsions in creams and lotions.

Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations to improve texture and provide
lightweight structure in emulsions.

Citric acid is an acid used in cosmetic formulations primarily for pH adjustment.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a mild amphoteric surfactant used in cosmetic formulations to create balanced cleansing systems with improved foam quality and skin tolerance.

Coco-glucoside is a mild non-ionic surfactant used in cosmetic formulations to provide gentle cleansing and support balanced surfactant systems.

A pre-dissolved panthenol solution used to support hydration and conditioning in cosmetic formulations.

D-Panthenol, also known as Dexpanthenol or Pro-Vitamin B5, is a multifunctional humectant and conditioning ingredient widely used across skincare, haircare and personal-care formulations. It is valued for combining moisture support with skin-conditioning, skin-comfort and hair-conditioning functionality.

Unlike a purely water-binding humectant, D-Panthenol can play several roles within a formulation strategy. In skincare it is commonly incorporated into systems targeting hydration, softness, skin comfort and barrier support, while in haircare it can contribute to conditioning, softness and improved hair feel.

This combination makes D-Panthenol particularly useful where formulators want a versatile active that can complement broader humectant, emollient and conditioning systems.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetic formulations to improve stability and support preservation systems.

Ectoin is a naturally occurring osmolyte often described as an extremolyte used in cosmetic formulation for hydration, skin comfort and barrier-supporting skincare. Originally associated with microorganisms adapted to challenging environmental conditions, Ectoin is valued by formulators for its ability to interact with water and help support a stable, hydrated environment around biological structures.

Rather than functioning simply as a conventional humectant, Ectoin is particularly useful in formulations designed around dryness, sensitivity, environmental exposure and compromised-feeling skin. It can be incorporated into serums, toners, gels, emulsions and other water-containing systems without being relied upon to provide the formulation’s primary viscosity or structure.

Its combination of water solubility, relatively low structural impact and compatibility with broader active systems makes Ectoin particularly useful in sophisticated hydration, soothing and barrier-focused formulations.

Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with skin-conditioning, mild humectant and antimicrobial properties. It is particularly valued for enhancing the effectiveness of compatible preservative systems while contributing to a soft, smooth skin feel.

Its antibacterial activity also makes it useful in deodorant formulations, where it can help control odour-causing microorganisms. Although it provides antimicrobial support, it is generally used alongside broader-spectrum preservatives rather than relied upon as the sole means of protecting a formulation.

Glycerin (also known as glycerol or glycerine) is a water-soluble humectant naturally present in the skin and widely used across cosmetic formulations to support hydration and skin comfort.

It is one of the most established ingredients in cosmetic science, valued for its reliability, broad compatibility, and well-understood performance.

Glyceryl stearate citrate is an emulsifier used in cosmetic formulations to stabilise oil-in-water systems such as creams and lotions.

A pre-hydrated hyaluronic acid solution used to support hydration in cosmetic formulations.

Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) is a nonionic, water-soluble cellulose ether used as a thickener and rheology modifier in cosmetic and personal-care formulations. It builds viscosity within the aqueous phase, helping formulators control flow, body and texture across products ranging from lightweight serums and cleansers to gels, creams, shampoos and body washes.

Unlike ingredients selected primarily for their skin benefits, HEC is a functional formulation ingredient. Its role is to modify the physical behaviour of the formula, providing aqueous-phase structure while also helping support suspension and physical stability.

Its nonionic character makes HEC a versatile rheology option across a broad range of formulation systems, including compatible surfactant-based products. Commercial HEC grades are available in different viscosity ranges, so the specific grade selected can significantly influence thickening efficiency, finished texture and the amount required to achieve the desired rheology.

Japanese camellia oil is a lightweight emollient used to soften and condition the skin.

Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester used in cosmetic formulations to condition and balance the skin.

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid used in cosmetic formulations for exfoliation and pH adjustment.

Lamesoft® PO65 is a refatting ingredient based on Coco-Glucoside and Glyceryl Oleate, used primarily in surfactant-based rinse-off formulations to improve mildness and post-cleansing feel. It introduces lipid-replenishing functionality into cleansing systems, helping reduce the tight, stripped sensation that can occur after washing.

In formulation, its role extends beyond sensory modification. Lamesoft® PO65 can also help stabilise surfactant systems, allowing formulators to incorporate refatting functionality while supporting the structure of the cleansing system itself. 

It is particularly relevant to facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos and other mild cleansing products where effective cleansing needs to be balanced with a softer, more conditioned post-rinse experience. 

Magnesium chloride is a mineral salt used in cosmetic formulations and bath products.

A water-based solution containing magnesium chloride used in cosmetic formulations.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is a water-soluble cosmetic active used in formulations to support barrier function, improve skin tone uniformity, and refine overall skin appearance. It is widely used across serums, creams, and toners due to its compatibility and stability in a broad range of systems.

It is supplied as a high-purity powder with consistent composition, supporting reliable formulation performance.

A pre-dissolved niacinamide solution used in cosmetic formulations.

Squalane is a lightweight, oil-soluble emollient used in cosmetic formulations to improve softness, slip and spreadability while helping reduce moisture loss from the skin. Chemically, it is a fully saturated hydrocarbon and is valued for its smooth sensory profile and versatility across skincare, haircare and anhydrous formulations.

Unlike conventional botanical oils, which are predominantly composed of triglycerides, Squalane has a different chemical structure and formulation behaviour. Its fluidity and high spreadability make it particularly useful for creating lighter, more elegant oil phases or balancing the richness and drag contributed by heavier oils, butters and waxes.

Squalane can be used in facial oils, creams and lotions, balms, lip products, body oils and hair treatments, either as a primary emollient or as part of a broader emollient blend. It is especially useful where formulators want conditioning and lubrication without an excessively heavy or greasy sensory profile.

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a non-ionic surfactant primarily used as a solubiliser in cosmetic and personal-care formulations. It helps incorporate fragrance, essential oils and other suitable lipophilic materials into water-containing systems and is commonly used across aqueous and surfactant-based formulations.

A multifunctional cosmetic ingredient used as a humectant, solvent, and formulation support component.

A preservative blend used to protect cosmetic formulations from microbial growth. 

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a versatile non-ionic cosmetic ingredient used as a solubiliser, emulsifier and mild surfactant. Its high HLB of 15–16 makes it particularly suited to oil-in-water systems, with applications ranging from solubilising small amounts of oil-soluble ingredients to emulsions and mild cleansing formulations.

Polysorbate 20 is a water-soluble, non-ionic surfactant used primarily as a solubiliser in cosmetic and personal-care formulations. It helps incorporate small amounts of fragrance, essential oils and other suitable oil-soluble materials into predominantly water-based systems, while also providing dispersing and supporting emulsification functionality.

Polysorbate 80 is a non-ionic surfactant used as a solubiliser, emulsifier and dispersing agent in cosmetic and personal-care formulations. It is particularly useful for helping incorporate oils, fragrance and other suitable lipophilic materials into water-containing systems and can also provide oil-in-water emulsifying support.

Potassium sorbate is a water-soluble preservative used in cosmetic formulations to support microbial stability in pH-controlled systems.

Propanediol (1,3) is a cosmetic-grade humectant and solvent used to support hydration, improve skin feel, and enhance formulation performance. It is commonly used in water-based systems to reduce tack and improve overall sensory profile.

Sclerotium Gum is a fermentation-derived polysaccharide used in cosmetic formulation as a rheology modifier, thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. It hydrates in water to build viscosity and smooth gel structure, helping formulators control the texture, flow and physical stability of aqueous and emulsified systems.

Unlike a rheology modifier selected solely for viscosity building, Sclerotium Gum can provide gelling, emulsion-stabilising and particle-suspending functionality while also contributing to the sensory character of the finished formulation. It is valued for creating smooth textures, improving spreadability and contributing a silky, non-sticky skin feel. These functions are supported by the manufacturer TDS.

Its water solubility, broad pH stability and versatility make it useful across serums, gels, lotions, creams, masks, sunscreens, shampoos, conditioners and makeup formulations. Final rheology will depend on concentration and the complete formulation system, allowing Sclerotium Gum to be used both as a primary rheology modifier and as part of a broader texture and stability strategy

Sodium Benzoate is a water-soluble preservative used in cosmetic formulations to support microbial stability in pH-controlled systems.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating sugar units. In cosmetic formulation, it is valued for its exceptional affinity for water and its ability to form hydrated polymer networks within the aqueous phase.

When dispersed and fully hydrated, Sodium Hyaluronate binds water and contributes a viscoelastic, film-forming character to the formulation. This distinguishes it from smaller humectant molecules such as glycerin or Sodium PCA: Sodium Hyaluronate can influence not only water management, but also viscosity, slip, film formation and the way a product feels during and after application.

A particularly important formulation variable is molecular weight. Sodium Hyaluronate is available across a wide range of molecular weights, and these grades should not be treated as interchangeable. Molecular weight can influence solution viscosity, film behaviour, sensory character and the concentration required to achieve the intended formulation effect.

Formulators therefore select Sodium Hyaluronate not simply by ingredient name, but by considering molecular weight, concentration, the surrounding humectant system and the desired finished-product rheology and sensory profile.

Sodium lactate is a water-soluble humectant and buffering agent commonly used in cosmetic formulations to support hydration and maintain pH stability. It is typically supplied as an aqueous solution and is valued for its strong water-binding capacity.

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is a mild anionic surfactant used in cosmetic formulations to provide effective cleansing with improved skin tolerance.

Sunflower il is a lightweight cosmetic emollient used to soften and condition the skin.

Sweet almond oil is a cosmetic emollient used to soften and condition the skin. 

Vitamin E is an oil-soluble antioxidant used in cosmetic formulations to support ability and skin conditioning.

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide thickener used in cosmetic formulations to build viscosity and stabilise systems.